Itum Bahal (Keshchandra Mahavihar)
इटुम बहाल
Kathmandu's largest Buddhist monastery complex with hidden courtyards, brass plaques depicting the Gurumapa legend, and a golden window relic.
Dedicated To
Prince Keshchandra (Buddhist)
Period
11th century CE (current structures 13th century)
Hours
Open courtyard (accessible during daytime)
Entry Fee
Free
Neighborhood
Between Thamel and Durbar Square, Old Kathmandu
Location
Kathmandu, Bagmati
Visiting Etiquette
Free entry. Remove shoes before entering shrines. Be quiet and respectful — this is an active monastery and residential area. Photography allowed in courtyards, restricted inside shrines.
Itum Bahal, formally known as Keshchandra Mahavihar, is the largest Buddhist monastery complex in Kathmandu. Hidden between Thamel and Durbar Square, this sprawling compound dates to the 11th century, with most current structures from the 13th century.
The monastery is famous for its multiple hidden courtyards (nanis) — Saraswati Nani, Tara Nani, and Baku Nani — each offering a different atmosphere and collection of sacred art. Brass plaques throughout the complex depict the legend of Prince Keshchandra and the monster Gurumapa, a beloved Newari folk tale. A golden window relic is among the monastery's prized artistic treasures.
Severely damaged in the 2015 earthquake, the main shrine was fully restored by 2017 with support from the World Monuments Fund, demonstrating the international significance of this heritage site.
The complex also houses a free community clinic, continuing the Newar tradition of monasteries serving both spiritual and civic functions. The northern entrance via Kilagal Street and the hidden southern archway from Chokachen Street make approaching the bahal an adventure in itself, winding through the atmospheric lanes of old Kathmandu.