Bagh Bhairav Temple

Bagh Bhairav Temple crowns a hilltop in Kirtipur, the fiercely independent Newar town that held out longest against Prithvi Narayan Shah's conquest of the Kathmandu Valley in the 18th century. The temple is dedicated to Bhairav in his tiger (bagh) form — a wrathful protector deity — and its walls are hung with old shields and khukuri knives said to have been used in the battles against Shah's Gorkhali forces. The weapons are a point of civic pride for Kirtipur's residents.

The temple itself is a simple but atmospheric structure, its brickwork darkened with age and its wooden struts carved with figures of deities and mythical beasts. The image of Bagh Bhairav is a painted stone slab depicting the tiger-faced god, kept behind a metal grille and venerated daily with vermilion, rice, and marigolds.

Once a year the temple is the centre of the town rather than a quiet viewpoint. On the first day of Bhadra — Singha Sankranti, in mid-August — Kirtipur keeps Bagh Bhairav Jatra: an image of the god made for the occasion is bathed in the kunda north of the temple, worshipped, and carried through the town with traditional bands, bhajans and Lakhe dance, while devotees circumambulate the temple, 108 times if they can.

What makes a visit memorable beyond the temple is the hilltop setting. Kirtipur occupies one of the highest points on the valley floor, and from the Bagh Bhairav compound the views stretch in every direction — the Himalayan range to the north on clear days, the Kathmandu skyline to the east, and the Chandragiri hills to the south. At sunset the panorama is outstanding.

Kirtipur itself is a living museum of Newar urban life: narrow brick lanes, carved wooden windows, community water spouts, and a pace of life largely untouched by the tourism that saturates the Durbar Squares. A visit to Bagh Bhairav pairs well with a walk through the town's lanes and a meal at one of the local Newari restaurants that have opened in recent years.