Dhampus

Dhampus is a Gurung village spread along a ridge at about 1,650 metres, an hour's drive plus a climb north-west of Pokhara. Stone-walled houses with slate roofs line a flagstone path that runs the length of the settlement, and the north side of the ridge opens onto Machhapuchchhre (6,993m), Annapurna South (7,219m) and Hiunchuli — close enough that the peaks fill the sky rather than sit on the horizon.

For most visitors Dhampus is a first night out of Pokhara. The classic approach is a short drive to Phedi at the foot of the hills, then a steep stone stairway of roughly two hours up to the village; the same stairway is the standard descent coming the other way. A rough road now also reaches the lower part of the village, so the walk can be skipped. From Dhampus the ridge continues west to Pothana and Australian Camp, and the same path carries trekkers heading for Mardi Himal and the Ghorepani side of the Annapurna region.

Dhampus lies inside the Annapurna Conservation Area, so an ACAP permit — and a TIMS card, if you are trekking beyond — is required, and both are issued in Pokhara or Kathmandu rather than at the village. Accommodation is teahouse-standard: a dozen or so lodges with simple rooms, hot showers of variable reliability, and dining rooms that fill up in October. Come for sunrise; the peaks are usually clear at dawn and cloud in by late morning.