Sankhu

Sankhu is among the most ancient settlements in the Kathmandu Valley, its origins predating even the Licchavi period (4th–9th century AD). Situated at the valley's northeastern rim where the hills begin to rise toward the Helambu region, Sankhu was historically a prosperous trading post on the Tibet trade route. The town's main bazaar street — a single brick-paved lane lined with traditional Newar houses — retains a timeworn grandeur that speaks to centuries of merchant wealth.

Above the town, a steep forested path leads to the Vajrayogini Temple, one of the four principal Vajrayogini shrines in the valley and a site of deep significance for both Hindu and Vajrayana Buddhist practitioners. The temple complex, set among ancient trees on a hillside, contains exquisite stone carvings and metalwork dating to the Licchavi era. Nearby, the Salinadi ghats along the small river below Sankhu serve as cremation grounds — a quieter, more intimate equivalent of Kathmandu's Pashupatinath.

The 2015 earthquake devastated much of Sankhu's historic core, collapsing many traditional houses and damaging the Vajrayogini temple. Reconstruction is ongoing but slow, and the town today presents a poignant mix of resilient heritage and visible damage. Visiting Sankhu offers a chance to see an authentic Newar town far from tourist crowds. It is reachable in about 45 minutes from central Kathmandu by local bus or taxi. Allow half a day to explore the bazaar, climb to Vajrayogini, and walk along the Salinadi.